![]() ![]() To do so, just increase the exposure slightly until your dark areas are slightly above -2. the reading is less than -2 or it is blinking) you may need to make an adjustment. In other words, if your exposure reading taken from the dark area of your picture is greater than -2, then you are all set.īut if your dark areas are not within the camera’s dynamic range (i.e. Is the meter showing that this area is still on the scale? If so, you’re all set and you’re ready to take the picture. So go ahead and meter on a dark portion of your view. ![]() What you’re doing here is making sure that your dark parts of the picture are still within the dynamic range after the exposure setting you just made. second, taking an exposure reading of that dark area.To do that, you will essentially do the same thing as you did in the process we just went through, but you will do it in a darker part of the picture. Now you need to make sure that the darker portions of your picture look good as well. By keeping these areas on the scale, you are ensuring that the bright portions are not “blown out.” If you were to just meter off of anything in the picture, the bright portions of your picture would likely be pure white. By putting these areas on the “plus” side of the meter, you are ensuring that they actually appear bright in the picture. What you’re doing is making sure that the bright parts of the picture are accurately set and that they are within the dynamic range of your camera. If you are reading on something really, really bright, bordering on white, set the exposure over +1, closer to +2 (but not all the way at +2).If you are reading something bright, like a sky, set the exposure meter at +1.If your metered point is not terribly bright, or is a mid-tone, just set the exposure in the middle of the scale at “0.”.Now you have an exposure reading based on the brightest portion of your picture.įinally, you will set your camera’s level of exposure based on that point. Once you are aimed at the bright area, take an exposure reading, either by pressing the shutter button halfway down or pressing the button on the back if you are using back button focus). Just worry about the brightest area of your frame that you want to keep from blowing out (turning white). If there are specular highlights, ignore those. Here’s how: Step 1: Meter Based on Light Areasįirst aim the center of your camera towards the brightest area in your frame. That sounds like it will be complicated and take a long time, but it will not. However, to combat this, what we are going to do is take multiple readings. The downside of spot metering is that if you meter on a bright portion of the picture and there are dark areas in the picture then you could have an improper exposure. To refresh your recollection, spot metering is where the camera measures light based on one single spot in the middle of your camera’s field of view. The first thing you’re going to do is set your camera to “spot-metering” mode. I think it will get you the best results. It is not the only method you can use, but it is the one I consistently see used by people who have really mastered their camera. In this article I will show you a method for both (a) setting proper exposure and (b) making sure as much of your picture as possible is within the dynamic range of your camera. How exactly should you go about metering a scene and setting the proper exposure? You understand all of that, but still the question arises: You know in general how the metering modes work, including spot-metering. You know in general how the camera meters light. ![]()
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